A Note on the Derivation of Wave Action Balance Equation in Frequency Space

作者：Hsu Tai Wen^*; Liau Jian Ming; Liang Shin Jye; Ou Shan Hwei; Li Yi Ting

来源：China Ocean Engineering, 2011, 25(1): 133-138.

DOI：10.1007/s13344-011-0011-z

• wave action balance equation
• wavenumber-spectrum
• frequency-spectrum
• Jacobian

In this paper the wave action balance equation in terms of frequency-direction spectrum is derived. A theoretical formulation is presented to generate an invariant frequency space to replace the varying wavenumber space through a Jacobian transformation in the wave action balance equation. The physical properties of the Jacobian incorporating the effects of water depths are discussed. The results provide a theoretical basis of wave action balance equations and ensure that the wave balance equations used in the SWAN or other numerical models are correct. It should be noted that the Jacobian is omitted in the wave action balance equations which arc identical to a conventional action balance equation.

• 出版日期2011