Dynamics of single-barred embayed beaches

作者：Ojeda Elena; Guillen Jorge^*; Ribas Francesca

来源：Marine Geology, 2011, 280(1-4): 76-90.

DOI：10.1016/j.margeo.2010.12.002

• subtidal sand bar
• nearshore morphodynamics
• video imagery
• artificial beach
• Barcelona
• Mediterranean

The dynamics of single submerged sandbars of two artificial embayed beaches (La Barceloneta and Bogatell, Barcelona, NW Mediterranean) has been studied with a video-recorded data set of 43 years. The alongshore-averaged cross-shore migration, the orientation with respect the shoreline and the sinuosity of the barlines have been analyzed and related to wave conditions, alongshore sediment transport and shoreline variability. In general, the submerged bars follow the general cyclic morphological behaviour observed in natural beaches, switching among the four intermediate morphodynamic states, but the studied beaches can be arrested during long periods of low wave conditions. The dominant up-state transition in Barcelona beaches during storms is the transition toward the rhythmic bar and beach state, the complete morphodynamic reset (longshore bar and trough state) only occurring during extreme wave events. The cross-shore migration of bars is dominated by the weekly and interannual components. The interannual component shows an onshore bar migration trend at both beaches, in contrast with the net offshore migration observed in multibarred open beaches. Bar disposition is located progressively seaward in the dominant alongshore transport direction (i.e., oblique with respect to the shoreline). At La Barceloneta beach, shoreline and barline orientations change consistently and a significant correlation between the accumulated alongshore sediment transport and the associated change in bar orientation has been found, suggesting that alongshore transport can play a significant role in barline orientation. Finally, bar sinuosity increases during eastern storms in both beaches. This indicates that the formation of crescentic bars occurs for approximately shore-normal waves. Some of the differences observed in bar morphology and mobility in the two studied beaches are related to their different level of protection with respect to the incident waves (beach indentation).

• 出版日期2011-2-15