科研之友
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摘要
Two-dimensional direct wave model is used for demonstration of the role of reversible interactions which probably is the main process leading to breaking. One-dimensional model was used for performing of thousands of exact short-term simulations of evolution of two superposed wave trains with different steepness, and wavenumbers were performed to investigate the effect of wave crests merging. Nonlinear sharpening of the merging crests is demonstrated. It is suggested that such effect may be responsible for appearance of the typical sharp crests of surface waves, as well as for wave breaking.
- 出版日期2016-8
