Analytical modelling of wave refraction and convergence on coral reef platforms: Implications for island formation and stability

作者：Mandlier Philipp Georg^*; Kench Paul Simon

来源：Geomorphology, 2012, 159: 84-92.

DOI：10.1016/j.geomorph.2012.03.007

• Coral reefs
• Refraction
• Wave convergence
• Coral islands

An analytical model was constructed to simulate the refraction of waves on coral reef platforms comprising an idealised bathymetry of uniform depth and vertical reef faces. Model simulations were conducted to investigate the influence of key parameters such as reef shape and depth as well as wave period on the propagation behaviour of incident waves. Results of the refraction analysis demonstrate that different reef shapes produce characteristic patterns of wave convergence on reef surfaces. The location and stability of focal zones and hence wave convergence is largely controlled by the shape of platforms. Platform configuration further controls the distribution of wave energy across platform surfaces and determines the influence of incident wave forcing on different reef sections. Results have significant implications for sedimentation processes and hence the formation and stability of islands on reef platforms. Wave propagation patterns define sediment transport vectors and subsequently control the transport and deposition of different sized material. Platforms which promote marked wave convergence behaviour, such as elliptical and circular reefs, are more likely to retain sediment on reef surfaces, whereas narrow linear structures have a higher potential for the off-reef evacuation of sediment over leeward reef margins and the subsequent infill of deeper lagoonal areas. The study provides a physical basis for future investigations of reef hydrodynamics and platform sedimentation processes.

• 出版日期2012-7-15